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The Most Beautiful Villages of England
by James Bentley, photographs by Hugh Palmer

Hallaton, Leicestershire VILLAGE ENGLAND as we know it is a creation that properly began in Anglo-Saxon times, although you can discover Iron Age and Roman remains in many a small community. Beside the Devonshire village of Clovelly, for instance, Clovelly Dykes is an impressive Iron Age hill fort. And since the name of the Hertfordshire vilage of Aldbury derives from the Anglo-Saxon for 'old-fort', its origins must predate the Anglo-Saxon era.

Anglo-Saxon villagers cultivated their crops by strip farming. In later years open fields provided the villagers with their sustenance, and also helped to transform the shape of ancient places. Other trades were important in those years. Anglo-Saxon Hallaton, for example, prospered on iron-working; today, Hallaton is Leicestershire's loveliest village, and in the parish church you can see Saxon coffin lids. Religion evidently played its part in the foundation of many an English village: Wherwell in Hampshire grew around a nunnery founded in 986; Mevagissey in Cornwall derives is name from two Cornish saints, Mews and Ida.

Many a Saxon church still stands. The descendants of these first worshippers, as they grew more wealthy, improved what they

inherited. The Norman church of St. Michael and All Angels at Linton-in-Craven, North Yorkshire, was begun in the twelfth century, but in the fifteenth the villagers added fine chapels in the Perpendicular style. In spite of the Black Death, which reached England in 1348, and subsequent disastrous policies such as the enclosures of the eighteenth an nineteenth centuries and the flight to the industrial towns, England's peasantry and yeomanry by no means disappeared. In truth, in some parts of teh country sheep farming brought wealth to the countryside, and the architecture of teh villages there enormously benefitted, especially with the building of magnificent 'wool churches', the finest probably that at Lavenham in Suffolk.

With the rise of Methodism, chapels were built to rival the parish church; one of the most interesting is the octagonal chapel of Heptonstall, West Yorkshire. Another example, built in 1839, graces the end of the High Street of Elham in Kent. Other reminiscences of past times in these English villages include tithe barns, such as that at Cerne Abbas in Dorset. They complement remains like the former Benedictine abbey, built in the tenth century at Cerne Abbas, the twelfth-century ruined Torre Abbey at Cockington in Devon, and splendid Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire, which was founded by the Countess of Salisbury in 1232.

Where cattle grazed, leather workers prospered in the villages. Where weavers flourished some of their cottages remain, as in Heptonstall and at Lavenham in Suffolk. Lead mining brought prosperity to Linton-in-Craven, and some of the miners' houses still stand there. For many an English village wheat crops remained important, witness the nineteenth-century corn-mill in Lower Slaughter, Gloucestershire. Often the villager and farmer acquired enough wealth to endow not only their superb churches but also magnificent secular buildings.

Historians have identified four major types of English village. The first group centres on a green or square (created often to accommodate the local market). The second comprises vilages which basically stretch along a single street (albeit with a few alleyways sometimes escaping to one or other side). A third group consists of villages which seem to have no plan at all. Finally, there are villages deliberately planned, sometimes by architects whose names we know. Many of these last date from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, designed sometimes to house the workers of a great estate.

Wherwell, Hampshire

All of these villages needed at least one inn. And if there was a lord of the manor, then the village still often retains the manor house. That at Lower Slaughter tellingly reveals the social status of the lord and the lesser mortals of the village with an inscription of 1771 in a basement room: 'A goode character is valuable to everyone, but especially to servants, for it is their bread and without it they cannot be admitted to a creditable family.'

One more characteristic feature of the English village is the school. These churches and schools sometimes produced geniuses, such as John Bunyan, who was born at Elstow in Bedfordshire. Many village schools were founded out of the munificence of local worthies, such as Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York, who in 1585 endowed the local school in his birthplace, Hawkshead. So were charitable almshouses, such as that at Linton-in-Craven, founded by Richard Fountaine for six poor women, and the almshouses of 1684 built by John Brabin in Chipping, Lancashire.

Chipping, Lancashire
CHIPPING, Lancashire

CHESTNUT TREES and a fast-flowing brook lend immediate charm to this village. 'Chipping' in old English means market, and in all probability around a market this village developed. Then in the seventeenth century Chipping began to prosper from the wool trade, maintained by the fleeces of the sheep which grazed on the Bowland Fells. In consequence many of the vilage's finest buildings also date from the seventeenth century.

Undoubtedly, Chipping's most generous benefactor was the seventeenth-century dyer and cloth merchant, John Brabin.

As an inscription reveals, he lived at 22 Talbot Street. When Brabin died in 1683, his will (which he had written the previous year, 'being infirm of body') bequeathed money to ease the plight of the por and also to build a village school. You can discern John Brabin's name, as well as the date 1684, on the gable end of a group of stone-built, terraced almshouses, which were also built with his money.
Cobbled Windy Street is charming; some of the stone-built houses, with their mullioned windows are set at right-angles to the street amid little gardens. Windy street reaches Talbot Street which then stretches down to a bridge over Chipping Brook, from which you can see an ancient water-wheel and, further in the distance, Longridge Fell.

Although the church, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, was founded in 597, its present tower dates from the mid fifteenth century and the rest (restored in 1873) from 1506. It is home to some of the local traditional spindle backed chairs, while stained-glass windows commemorate recent celebrated practitioners of this art. Buried in the chancel is The Rev. John King, who was vicar here from 1622 to 1672 and survived all the religious vicissitudes of that turbulent era.

Chipping, Lancashire

HAWKSHEAD, Cumbria

OCCUPYING a dramatic site in the Lake District, Hawkshead looks out to Esthwaite Water, which laps the southern tip of the village; the hills of Grizedale Forest also run southwards. The village is roughly halfway between Windermere and Coniston Water. Walk the mile-long footpath whih leads west from the village to Hawkshead Hill for magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.


Hawkshead, Cumbria

Hawkshead, Cumbria
Here at the age of eight William Wordsworth came for his schooling, having been born at Cockermouth in 1770. for the most part he stayed here before going up to Cambridge seven years later. Somewhere in the warren of narrow, sometimes cobbled streets, with little squares and courtyards reached beneath low arches, is Ann Tyson's cottage, with its flight of outdoor steps, set where Vicarage Lane meets present-day Wordsworth Street, where the poet is said to have made his home.

Villages in the book: ABBOTS BROMLEY, Staffordshire; ACTON BURNELL, Shropshire; ALDBURY, Hertfordshire; AMBERLEY, Sussex; BAMBURGH, Northumberland; CASTLE BYTHAM, Lincolnshire; CERNE ABBAS, Dorset; CHADDESLEY CORBETT, Worcestershire; CHIPPING, Lancashire; CLOVELLY, Devon; COTTESBROOKE, Northamptonshire; DEDHAM, Essex; DORCHESTER, Oxfordshire; DUNSTER, Somerset; EDENSOR, Derbyshire; ELHAM, Kent; ELSTOW, Bedfordshire; ETON, Berkshire; GAINFORD, Durham; HALLATON, Leicestershire; HAWKSHEAD, Cumbria; HEMINGFORD GREY, Cambridgeshire; HEPTONSTALL, West Yorkshire; HEYDON, Norfolk; LACOCK, Wiltshire; LAVENHAM, Suffolk; LINTON-IN-CRAVEN, North Yorkshire; LOWER and UPPER SLAUGHTER, Gloucestershire; MEVAGISSEY, Cornwall; NETHER WINCHENDON, Buckinghamshire; OCKLEY, Surrey; PRESTBURY, Cheshire; SOUTHWELL, Nottinghamshire; WELFORD-ON-AVON, Warwickshire; WEOBLEY, Herefordshire; WHERWELL, Hampshire.


This excellent book is published by Thames and Hudson (ISBN 0-500-01905-3) and can be purchased from Amazon at a price of £21.21

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